Antique Coque de Perle & Cut Steel Brooch

Antique Victorian Brooch with large "Coque de Perle" and richly ornate with Cut Steel beads and dates back to c.1830s.

Coque de Perle ('pearl shell' in French) was a "faux pearl" carved from the East Indian nautilus shell. The central whorl of the bulging part of the shell was cut away to form delicate “eggshell pearls.” 
Usually filled with cement (or other filling) to stabilise it, coque de perle was very popular because of its high level of iridescence and found set with cut steel jewellery or with pyrite and, very occasionally, in gold.

The Cut Steel jewellery innovation originated in the 1700s. 
To make cut steel, melted horseshoe nails were formed into tiny faceted beads. Those small steel gemstone-like studs were then riveted one-by-one onto a base plate. Because of the complexities in manufacturing (and the workmanship that was required) it grew beyond a simple imitation to an art by itself.
It was so in demand that at the peak of the trend, a fine piece of cut steel jewellery could command a higher price than gold. Silver jewellery was even made to resemble cut steel. The imitation became imitated — a true sign of iconic status.

The frame of the represented Brooch is most probably made in brass, based on the metal colour. 
The pin and tube hinge were replaced at some point, as it differs in metal colour from the frame. However, the original C-clasp is still in place. 

Two metal plates that secure back of the Coque de Perle are missing (third plate is still there). 
Other than that great condition: all cut steel pieces are in place without any signs of rust.
Coque de Perle in great condition, without any cracks, or defects. 
It's a great treasure that  this piece came to our days without defects.

No hallmarks present. 

Dimensions: 55mm x 55mm
Weight: 9g

Please note: Jewellery Box on photo is NOT included and was used for photoshoot purposes only.